Hicks House

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Herringbone Woodshim Mirror

Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House Finally! More than a year after starting my own blog, I have completed the project that originally inspired me write about our home journey and diy our own touches. Allison over at House of Hepworths originally made her own woodshim mirror back in March of 2013. An idea she originally got from Addicted 2 Decorating and their tutorial. I of course had to put my own spin on it. While I loved the idea of the mirror, I wanted my shims to be laid out in a different pattern. I’d been envisioning it in an awesome herringbone pattern – admittedly a much harder pattern than the square pattern Allison and Kristi used. (what can I say, I’m a glutton for punishment). And so began my longest DIY project to date. In order to not overwhelm this post (or crash your browser window) with the bazillion photos I took of this process over the last three months I’ve organized most of them into collages. Step one was to buy all of the materials. We purchased

  • three packs of cedar wood shims
  • a 4×4 square of 1/2 inch MDF board (we wanted our finished mirror to be 3.5 feet in diameter
  • and 3 tubes of liquid nails
  • IKEA KOLJA mirror

We figured out that if we cut the shims to 5 3/4 inches each we would have less shim waste, so Ken set up a jig on his saw to ensure all his cuts were the same and got to chopping all the shims. Some had quite a bit of splintering happening on the ends so gave those a quick pass with hand sanding block. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House What we ended up with was a big ole pile o’ shims. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House We then placed our MDF board on top of two sawhorses to create a sort of work table. We found the center of the board and drew an X. To make sure we had enough shims and that the pattern was working properly I laid them all out dry until the entire surface was covered. I then picked up the middle pieces so that Ken could drill a hole in the center that could later be used as an entry point for the jigsaw. (In retrospect this could have been done before the dry fit – but I was too excited to get started I couldn’t wait). I then picked the pieces up one by one, applied a good amount of Liquid Nails to the back of each piece and spread it out with an extra piece of shim and carefully put them back. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House After getting into a bit of a rhythm I found it easier to pick up two pieces at a time so that I only had to worry about butting it up to one side of shim. I worked from the center up then down in one row, then off to each side. Disclaimer: This part really sucks. If you are off even the teensiest amount it will throw each additional piece off that amount times 2 and when you get to the edge nothing will fit right. Go SLOW and line everything up. Don’t worry you can do it. The glue doesn’t adhere fully right away so if you happen to stick a piece wrong you can pull it up and try again. Try to be careful of getting glue on the side or top of any of the shims. If you plan on staining this later on the stain will not adhere to the glue. (This is an example of do as I say not as I do mmmkay?) I then let it dry for 48 hours 2 weeks. When we decided it was sufficiently dry we used the ole pen and string method to draw our inner and outer circles. The mirror had a diameter of 22 inches so we decided our inner circle would be 18 inches and hoped that was enough overlap to later attach the mirror from the back. As mentioned earlier our outer circle was 3.5 feet. and Ken used his brand new Jigsaw to cut along the lines we drew. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House I deliberated and wavered back and forth between painting and staining because I was starting to get nervous that it was going to look too Country and that wasn’t what I wanted. Eventually I threw out the idea of painting it metallic silver (although I still think that would have looked cool too) and went to town staining the whole thing a dark espresso. I started with the cheap paint brush shown in the photo below and quickly swapped out for a foam brush (sorry not pictured). I worked in sections letting it sit on the wood for about 5-10 minutes then wiping it off with a clean white rag. The MDF edges SOAKED up the stain and I had to continuously dab on at least 5 coats, with no wiping to get a similar color to the top. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House Just to be safe I let this dry for a couple of weeks too. These things shouldn’t be rushed. We then flipped it upside down and drew some marks 22 inches from the center to line our mirror up at. We propped the mirror up on some paint cans topped with cardboard -to not harm the fabulous stain job- and squeezed on a bunch more Liquid Nails in a circle trying not to get too close to the opening (don’t want glue oozing out the middle) and spread it out. Ken then very very carefully put one hand through the middle (hence the propped-upness) and lowered the mirror down. This was super nerve wracking because you essentially have only one shot at this step. One it was down we carefully took it off the paint cans, placed it back on the sawhorses and put a bunch of cans on top to press it firmly into the mirror frame. We also applied a security edge of Liquid Nails around the edge as it had a slight bevel to it. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House At this point we were getting pretty excited and really wanted the mirror finished and hung on the wall. so of course it actually did take several days to dry. After we adhered the mirror, we read the side of the Liquid Nails bottle – you know always best to read the instructions after you’re done – and it said “not for use on mirrors” uh oh. So of course I was panicking that it wouldn’t hold and we would get it mounted on the wall and the mirror would detach from the frame and come crashing down while we had company over or were sleeping and shatter EVERYWHERE. So we decided to take precautionary measures. We bough some metal mirror clips from Home Depot which seemed like the perfect solution,except they were slightly too high. In order to get them to fit Ken slammed them with a hammer and used pliers to bend them into shape. Perfecto! Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House Then of course the next crisis – nothing ever is easy. The screws that came with the mirror clips were too long, so we bought 1/2 inch screws and just to be safe used a scrap piece of wood to test it out. Ken measured the screw against his drill bit and wrapped some masking tape around it to create a “poor man’s drill stop” to ensure the pre-drilled screw holes were not too deep. He them pre-drilled the holes and HAND SCREWED in the screws. This is very important, do not use a drill because it would be too powerful for the MDF and could weaken it or cause splinters. The test piece held up well and didn’t pierce through to the other side so we repeated the process on the actual mirror, attaching one clip at the top and two on the bottom. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House The next dilemma was how to hang this beast, it easily weighs 20-30lbs. We purchased some heavy-duty D-rings and used the same 1/2 inch screws, pre-drill, hand screw method to attach them to the top of the mirror. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House In the picture hanging section at Home Depot we found these Monkey Hooks, we liked it because it made only a small hole in the wall and was rated to hold up to 50 pounds. Since we had some extra drywall in the basement we tried them out and took this picture that shows how they are able to support so much weight. It goes in your wall and hooks around to rest on the drywall behind the wall. Herringbone Woodshim Mirror Hicks House We went upstairs to the dining room, measured out where we wanted the mirror, placed the hooks in the wall to line up with our D-rings and TA-DA its all done! Herringbone Woodshim Mirror | Hicks House So what do you think? I’m in LOVE. I am actually surprised how much I like the way the stain picked up the different tones of wood and think it plays well against the more contemporary elements of the dining room, not too Country at all! What do you think? I’d love to hear your opinions and if you’re planning on tackling any projects like this yourself. Just scroll ALL the way down to the bottom and leave it in the comments. (I’ve tried various things and cannot get this to move up, the field I was adding before was sending me emails instead of creating comments.) So thus concludes the longest post and project to date! Thanks for following along! Hicks House

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Drapery Dreams

It’s official.  We finally have curtains in one of our rooms.  This is the most exciting thing that has happened to our windows since we got blinds.

The ironic thing is we have curtains for almost every room and even purchased curtain rods a while back. However in order to not duplicate work we are waiting to hang them until the rooms are painted. That way we avoid screwing the curtain hooks into the wall only to have to remove them to paint and put back up again.

As the first room to get painted, the dining room also received the honor of getting the first set of curtains. If you remember from when we painted that room we had this problem area where the door and window just about meet:

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtians

Here is a closer shot of it. You can imagine how miserable it was to paint in between this itty bitty spot. It proposed an event larger challenge for how we were going to hang curtains in here.

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

The edge of the window sill buts right up against the wall. It took many months of brainstorming and research to figure out just how to do this because not having curtains in the dining room was just not an option I could accept.

After looking in countless stores at the curtain rod selection nothing seemed to work. The best working idea we had was to hang the rod with the issue sort of like a closet rod so that it would literally sit against a holder that would be screwed into the wall. We were all gung ho and ready to go this route when we decided to check one more place – Bed Bath and Beyond. Seriously that store has everything, so its no surprise we found our answer – curtain rods with a screw off flat end so the end with the wall could have a flat end while the other end received a finial. Perfect!

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

Due to the fact that the one problem window will only overhang the window on one end we were able to save about $10 by purchasing the shorter rod size for that window. I was super excited because I really was hesitant about using a wood rod in here. I just didn’t think it would have the right look so to find a solution in the same brushed nickel finish we bought for the rest of the house was a bonus.

Here’s a closeup of the flat end that came on the rods. You could totally use these on both sides if you wanted – however for our three non-problem sides we decided to use screw in finials.

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

These rods also came with super chic curtain hooks. In comparison to the hooks that came with the rest of the rods we purchased at Home Depot there really is no comparison. These actually look decorative rather than merely functional.

In order to hang them up we decided to have them go directly above the window frame. Ideally I would have liked them higher however we only have 8 foot ceilings and curtain manufacturer’s seem to be way behind the curve and still only make curtains in 84 or 93 inches. 84 inches is too short and 93 way to long. So frustrating. By hanging the rods at this height the 84 wasn’t insanely short to the point that I may be able to lengthen them if I ever get the motivation.

So we lined the hook up and screwed it in.

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

Here is a close up of the bomb.com curtain hooks. And also the best picture to date of the coventry gray paint.  (You can also see a sneak peek at the new color in the TV room that I haven’t even wrote about yet)

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

Then just screw in the finials

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains
Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

Note: Do not screw the finial in on both ends right now or you won’t be able to get your curtain on the rod… not that I’m speaking from experience or anything… just looking out. 🙂

Then we put up the curtains. You may be wondering why I didn’t custom make curtains for this room after my little rant about the length. I thought about it, however I fell in love with these curtains from Pier 1. They were way higher quality fabric than I would have been able to find or afford and had a gorgeous embroidered design on them in almost the same gray as on the walls. When a 20% off total purchase coupon showed up at my house I decided it was destiny and they were meant to be mine. So I am dealing with the fact that they are too short – and will most likely let out the bottom hem later on (after practicing on less expensive curtains from another room) to alleviate this.

So can we see these fabulous curtains? I know after that description your at the edge of seat on pins and needles awaiting this picture. So without further ado:

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

Isn’t it lovely? They also came with grommet tops which was an added bonus when dealing with the problem area if you look close, on that side we folded the curtain in half before hanging so its actually half as wide to accommodate the lack of space.

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

Now when I come down from upstairs and look over into this room I see these gorgeous curtains and my heart skips a beat. Who wouldn’t want to see this sight?

Hicks House | Dining Room Curtains

 

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I love it so much I can’t wait to hang curtains in more rooms!

One step closer to a “finished” dining room. Things that still need to be done/want to do.

  • paint the walls
  • hang curtains
  • add a new light fixture that is more than just a single bare bulb hanging from the ceiling
  • make a HUGE over scale mirror out of wood shims for the wall
  • paint custom artwork
  • find and purchase a hutch to keep all of our nice plates and servingware
  • get a larger dining room table?
  • install a chair rail and picture frame mouldings and paint the lower half of the walls white?

I’d love to hear what you think! Are you as frustrated with the “standard” curtain length as I am? Have you altered your curtains or just let them hang like a pair of high water pants?

Hicks House

 


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Awash in Color

If you’ve been keeping up and read my last post you know that we bought all new paint colors for the house. While picking out the colors and bringing them home hand me jumping up and down like an excited school girl ready to jump right in and start painting – my more practical counterpart ensured we did the proper prep.

We collected all of the painting supplies we had leftover from when we painted the condo (see here, here, and here) and laid them out on the dining room table to see what we had and what we needed.  Then Ken went around the room with a flash flight (the lighting in there is currently a single bulb in the center of the room – thus very very bad) to find any imperfections (paint drips, globs, popped nails) in the wall so that we could mark them to be sanded down.

Inspector at work

Inspector at work

Then we covered the dining room table in a tarp which I think made it look like a Dexter Kill Room

paint prep dining room 1

paint prep dining room 2

Perhaps it is.. Afterall this is the Room the Builder Grade White Paint Came to Die dun dun dun… Thanks to the Master Hide (seriously that is the name of it) paint the builder used there were actually quite a lot of imperfections; some we had noticed previously, some we had not. They were all sanded down and the ones that needed it were compounded then sanded down again.

Thankfully the builder was nice enough too lazy to move the paint out and we used it to go over the sanded spots bringing it back to a nice smooth even colored surface. Had we been priming this step might have been unnecessary however we are using the builder white paint as a primer level and didn’t want any discolored spots showing through.

After the “primer” dried I worked my way around the room with a ladder cutting our chosen color (Coventry Gray by Benjamin Moore) in while Ken taped off around the doors and windows. Including this nice teeny tiny area between the window and the door. Seriously what were they thinking when they put these things so close together?

tiny space between door and window

tiny space between door and window

Not only does it complicate the painting (I had to use a tiny craft brush) but it creates a conundrum on how exactly we are going to hang a curtain rod here. We have some ideas but are definitely open to suggestions as well 🙂

Once the taping was done and I was about 3/4 through the room with the cutting in process Ken rolled the walls. This is a decent sized room and we really wanted to try to get it done in one coat and with one gallon. (paint for an entire house is expensive) Lucky for us we had decided to go entirely with Benjamin Moore paints for our house – a brand we had never used before – and learned you definitely do get what you pay for with paint. The Benjamin Moore paint covered much thicker, didn’t come off the wall if you rolled over a still wet painted area and had a much more even coating we couldn’t see the roller or brush marks after the one coat which is something that always bothered us with the “bargain paint” when painting the condo.

We made it by the skin of our teeth, there was merely a drop left in the bucket once the first coat was done. I wasn’t able to get very good pictures due to the crappy lighting single bulb and the fact that the kill room will be set up until all the rooms are complete; but you can get the general idea for now.

dining room

dining room

that pesky spot

that pesky spot (still wet thats why the shiny spot)

So there we go, 1 room down 9 more and the hallways to go!